What to Pack for Dog Boarding: The Complete Checklist (And What to Leave Home)

You've found a great boarding host. The meet-and-greet went well. Now you're standing in front of your dog's stuff, wondering: what actually needs to go in the bag?

If you Google "what to pack for dog boarding," you'll find the same generic list everywhere: food, medication, vaccination records. That's table stakes. Every pet parent knows to bring those things.

What nobody tells you is what actually matters for your dog's emotional experience. Dogs navigate unfamiliar environments primarily through scent—which means one worn t-shirt does more for their anxiety than five clean toys. And certain "helpful" items actually create problems: too many toys trigger resource guarding, new treats cause digestive upset when combined with stress, and freshly washed comfort items carry no scent at all.

This is hard—trying to pack your dog's sense of security into a bag. But it's also fixable once you understand what actually helps dogs settle versus what just makes you feel better about leaving.

The Two Categories of Packing

Think of boarding items in two buckets:

Category	Purpose	Priority	What Happens If Wrong
Logistics	Keep your dog fed, healthy, legal	Required	Diet changes cause diarrhea; medication gaps risk health episodes; missing vaccination records mean hosts cannot legally accept your dog
Comfort	Help your dog feel secure	Strategic	Wrong items (freshly washed, too many) provide zero comfort or trigger resource guarding; right items (concentrated scent anchor) reduce settling time from days to hours

Most pet parents nail logistics but overthink comfort items. The result? Overpacked bags that overwhelm the host's space, and dogs who still feel unsettled because the items that actually work—scent-concentrated anchors—weren't included.

Let's fix that.

The Required Items (Non-Negotiable)

These items are essential for any boarding stay. Your host needs them to care for your dog properly and legally.

Food: Bring More Than You Think

What to Pack	Why It Matters	What Breaks If You Skip It
Their regular food	Dogs' gut bacteria are adapted to their current diet	New food + stress = diarrhea within 24-48 hours, which means a miserable dog and extra cleanup for your host
Enough for full stay + 2 extra days	Travel delays happen; extended stays happen	Running out mid-stay forces an abrupt diet switch—triggering the exact digestive problems you're trying to avoid
Pre-portioned bags (optional but helpful)	Eliminates measurement guesswork	Under-portioning leaves dogs hungry and anxious; over-portioning can cause bloat or weight issues in sensitive dogs

Pro tip: Stick to their normal food. Boarding is not the time to try that new salmon-and-sweet-potato kibble you've been eyeing. Dogs' digestive systems are sensitive to change, and stress can compound the problem. Diarrhea at boarding is no fun for anyone.

The pre-portioning trick experienced hosts love: Measure each meal into individual ziplock bags labeled "Day 1 AM," "Day 1 PM," etc. This eliminates guesswork for your host and ensures your dog gets exactly what they need—especially critical for dogs on weight management or with sensitive stomachs.

If your dog eats wet food mixed with kibble, bring both. If they need food toppers like Stella & Chewy's freeze-dried meal mixers or bone broth, include those too. The goal is replicating their normal meals as closely as possible.

Medications: Original Bottles Required

What to Pack	Why It Matters	What Breaks If You Skip It
Medications in original pharmacy bottles	Many states legally require pharmacy labels for controlled substances	Without original bottles, hosts cannot verify dosing, and some may refuse to administer (protecting themselves legally)
Written dosing instructions	Bottle labels fade, smudge, or use medical shorthand hosts may not understand	Wrong timing or dosage—especially critical for insulin, seizure meds, or anxiety medications that require precision
Vet's contact information	Hosts need a professional to call if something seems wrong	Without vet access, hosts must wait for you or guess—neither protects your dog
Pill administration aids	Pill Pockets, Greenies Pill Pockets, or cheese—whatever works for your dog	Dogs who won't take pills from strangers miss doses; familiar treats maintain the routine

Critical detail: If your dog takes compounded medications, ensure the label clearly shows dosing instructions. Handwritten notes on bottles aren't sufficient for controlled substances. When in doubt, ask your vet for a printed medication summary you can include.

Timing matters for certain medications:

• Trazodone (event-based anxiety): Give 2-3 hours before stressful events for peak effect
• Gabapentin (pain/anxiety): Takes 1-2 hours to reach effectiveness
• Apoquel (allergies): Best given with food to prevent stomach upset
• Insulin (diabetic dogs): Include exact timing relative to meals—this is non-negotiable

Write these timing instructions down. Your host isn't a mind reader, and "give with dinner" isn't specific enough for medications that require precision.

For dogs on supplements like Cosequin (joint health), Dasuquin (advanced joint support), or Purina FortiFlora (probiotics), include those too. Consistency matters, especially for older dogs whose routines shouldn't change.

Vaccination Records

Most hosts require proof of current vaccinations:

• Rabies (required by law everywhere)
• DHPP (Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvovirus, Parainfluenza)
• Bordetella (kennel cough) — must be current, typically valid for 6-12 months
• Canine Influenza (H3N2/H3N8) — increasingly required, especially in Chicago after several outbreaks

Chicago note: After the 2015 and 2018 canine influenza outbreaks that sickened thousands of dogs, most Chicago-area boarding hosts and facilities require the canine flu vaccine. If your dog isn't current, schedule this 2+ weeks before boarding to ensure full immunity.

Bring paper copies or have digital records accessible. Don't assume your host can contact your vet—have the proof ready.

Emergency Information (Written, Not Verbal)

Prepare a simple info sheet with:

• Your phone number and email
• Backup contact (someone local who can make decisions if you're unreachable)
• Veterinarian name, address, and phone
• Emergency vet clinic preference (if different from regular vet)
• Authorization statement: "I authorize [host name] to seek emergency veterinary care for [dog's name] if I cannot be reached. I will be responsible for associated costs."

That last part is crucial. If your dog needs emergency care and you're on a plane with no cell service, your host needs legal authorization to act. Without it, they may face delays getting your dog the help they need.

The Comfort Items (Strategic, Not Exhaustive)

Here's where most pet parents go wrong. They pack half the house because they want their dog to feel at home.

The truth: More stuff doesn't equal more comfort. A few intentional items work better than a mountain of familiar objects.

One Scent Anchor (Not Five)

Dogs navigate the world through smell—their olfactory system is 10,000 to 100,000 times more sensitive than ours. A single item that carries your concentrated scent activates the same calming neural pathways as your physical presence, which is why dogs with proper scent anchors settle in hours rather than days.

Best options:

• A worn t-shirt you've slept in (not freshly laundered)
• A small blanket from your bed or couch
• Your dog's usual bed cover (the removable liner, not the whole bed)

Worst options (and why they fail):

• Multiple items → dilutes the concentrated scent that makes a single anchor effective, and creates clutter the host must manage
• Freshly washed anything → laundry removes the volatile organic compounds that constitute "your smell" to your dog; a clean shirt provides zero comfort
• Large beds that don't fit the boarding space → hosts must work around bulky items or store them, and your dog may not use a bed that doesn't fit their temporary sleeping area
• Items you'd be devastated to lose → dogs chew when stressed, accidents happen, outdoor items get muddy or lost; pack only what you're prepared to sacrifice

The scent-swap protocol: Sleep in the t-shirt for 2-3 nights before boarding (not just one night). The more concentrated your scent, the more effective the anchor. Pack it last—in a sealed ziplock bag—so it doesn't pick up other smells in transit.

One t-shirt stuffed in their crate or sleeping area does more than five clean toys from home.

Their Familiar Leash and Collar

Item	Recommendation	Why It Works
Collar	Their everyday collar with current ID tags	Dogs recognize their own gear by scent and feel; unfamiliar collars create friction and resistance during walks
Leash	Their regular leash (not your fancy leather one)	Putting on their leash activates the same neural patterns as walking with you—it signals "this is my walk," not "I'm borrowing someone else's routine"
Harness	If they walk better in one	Dogs who pull on unfamiliar equipment become harder to control, increasing escape risk; familiar harnesses maintain the walking patterns your dog knows

ID tag check: Before boarding, verify your ID tags have your current phone number. Also confirm your dog is microchipped and the registration is up to date with your current contact info. If they somehow got loose (extremely rare with good hosts, but possible), you want every path leading back to you.

2-3 Familiar Toys (Maximum)

Not their whole toy collection. Two to three favorites that meet these criteria:

• They actively play with it (toys sitting untouched in a basket provide no comfort)
• It's not a high-value "resource guarding" trigger (if your dog growls when other dogs approach this toy, leave it home—multi-dog environments amplify guarding behavior)
• It can survive other dogs' curiosity (if your host cares for multiple pets, flimsy toys get destroyed)

Skip these (and why):

• Squeaky toys → the sound travels through walls; hosts with families or neighbors cannot have squeaking at 6 AM
• Plush toys your dog destroys → without your supervision, stuffing ingestion becomes a choking or intestinal blockage risk
• Anything irreplaceable → stressed dogs chew more aggressively; assume anything you pack might come back damaged or not at all

Good choices: A Kong they love (durable, quiet, can be stuffed for engagement), a Nylabone or Benebone (satisfies chewing urge without destruction risk), or a familiar ball (simple, durable, recognizable).

What NOT to Pack

This list is as important as what to bring. These items seem helpful but often cause problems.

Expensive or Irreplaceable Items

That heirloom blanket from your grandmother? Leave it home. Stressed dogs chew more aggressively than usual—it's a self-soothing behavior that intensifies in unfamiliar environments. Items get dragged outside, peed on, or destroyed beyond recognition. If losing it would upset you, it cannot go in the bag.

New Food or Treats

Boarding is not the time to introduce that new organic treat subscription or "superfood" topper. Here's why: stress hormones (cortisol, adrenaline) directly impact gut motility and bacterial balance. When you combine that physiological stress response with novel proteins or ingredients your dog's system hasn't encountered, diarrhea or vomiting becomes almost inevitable within 24-48 hours. Your host then deals with cleanup, your dog feels worse, and the entire stay becomes harder for everyone.

Too Many Toys

More isn't better—it's actively worse. Resource guarding (growling, snapping, protecting items) intensifies when dogs feel their "possessions" are threatened, and multi-dog environments create exactly that threat perception. Three toys maximum. More than that overwhelms the host's space, creates cleanup burden, and increases the probability of a guarding incident that makes your dog's stay more stressful, not less.

Full-Sized Beds

Unless your host specifically asks, skip the giant dog bed. Most boarding hosts have comfortable sleeping arrangements already—they've optimized their space for multiple dogs and know what works. Your dog's bed takes up room they've allocated for other purposes, may not fit the sleeping area they've designated, and provides less comfort than you'd expect (dogs adapt to new sleeping surfaces quickly; what they cannot adapt to is missing your scent, which is why a small scent-saturated blanket outperforms a large familiar bed).

Anxiety-Inducing Items

Some items seem comforting but have become conditioned stress signals through unintentional training:

• Separation anxiety triggers: If a particular toy only appears when you leave (like a stuffed Kong given only at departure), your dog has learned that this item predicts abandonment. The toy no longer provides comfort—it activates the same cortisol response as your actual departure. Leave it home.
• Crates associated with punishment or isolation: Dogs who were crated as discipline develop negative associations that persist for life. Bringing that crate to boarding doesn't provide "familiar security"—it triggers the same stress response as the punishment it was used for. If your dog genuinely loves their crate (runs in voluntarily, sleeps there with door open), discuss bringing it with your host. If the crate relationship is complicated, leave it.

Aggressive Chew Items for Unsupervised Time

Items like bully sticks, beef tracheas, or antlers become choking hazards the moment no one is watching. Dogs chew these items down to small pieces that can lodge in their throat or cause intestinal blockages—risks you mitigate at home by monitoring and removing the item when it gets too small. Your boarding host is caring for your dog (and possibly others), so they cannot provide the same constant supervision you do. The consequence of a choking incident when you're unreachable and the host is in another room is severe. Leave aggressive chews behind unless your host explicitly confirms they can provide one-on-one supervision during chew time.

The "Information Pack" Your Host Actually Wants

Beyond physical items, prepare clear written information. Hosts appreciate pet parents who communicate proactively—it helps them provide better care.

Daily Routine Details

Information	Why It Helps	What Breaks Without It
Feeding times and portions	Maintains the circadian rhythm your dog's digestive system expects	Irregular feeding causes anxiety, begging, or digestive upset; wrong portions mean hungry or overfed dogs
Walk schedule	Morning dog? Evening stroller? Host can match the pattern	Dogs expecting a 7 AM walk who don't get one become restless, anxious, or have indoor accidents
Bathroom signals	"She paws at the door" or "He stares at you intensely"	Hosts who miss the signal because they don't know it end up cleaning indoor accidents—stressful for everyone
Bedtime routine	Crate at 10pm? Sleeps on couch? Host can replicate	Dogs left to "figure it out" may pace, whine, or struggle to settle when their expected routine doesn't happen
Known fears	Thunderstorms? Vacuums? Doorbells?	A host who vacuums near an unknowingly vacuum-phobic dog creates a panic response that damages trust

Behavioral Honesty

Be honest about quirks. Hiding behavior problems doesn't help anyone—especially your dog.

Share This	Because	What Happens If You Don't
Resource guarding tendencies	Host can manage food/toy scenarios safely	Surprise growling or snapping incidents when another dog approaches food bowl—damages host trust and may end the stay early
Leash reactivity	Host knows to create distance from other dogs on walks	Unexpected lunging or barking creates dangerous situations; host may decide they cannot safely walk your dog
Separation anxiety signs	Host knows what to watch for and can provide comfort	Destructive behavior, excessive barking, or escape attempts that seem "out of nowhere" to an unprepared host
House training status	Puppy still learning? Host can offer more outdoor breaks	Indoor accidents that strain the relationship because the host expected a fully trained dog
Dog-selectivity	Host can manage introductions if they have other pets	Conflict with resident pets that could have been avoided with proper introduction protocols

Good hosts appreciate honesty. You might worry that disclosing quirks makes your dog seem "difficult"—but the opposite is true. Dogs become difficult when hosts are blindsided by behavior they weren't prepared for. Disclosed quirks become manageable situations.

Chicago-Specific Packing Considerations

Living in Chicago creates specific constraints that suburban pet parents never encounter—and that your host needs to know about to avoid preventable problems.

High-Rise Dwellers

If you live in a high-rise (common in River North, Streeterville, the Loop, South Loop), add these to your list:

Item	Why	What Breaks Without It
Extra waste bags	For the lobby exit—your dog will want to go immediately	Dog relieves themselves in the lobby before host finds a bag; building management gets involved
Paw wipes	Salt residue in lobbies during winter months	Salt tracked into host's home or car; dog licks paws and gets stomach upset from de-icing chemicals
Written elevator protocol	Does your dog need an empty elevator? Note this for your host	Reactive dogs crowded into occupied elevators can snap or panic; creates liability and building complaints
Building access instructions	Fob, doorman notification, parking validation—whatever applies	Host cannot pick up or return your dog without lengthy workarounds; creates delays and frustration for everyone

The lobby problem explained: Many Chicago high-rise dogs have been conditioned to "hold it" through the elevator ride and lobby walk because they know relief comes once they hit the sidewalk. If your host doesn't know this behavioral pattern, they might interpret the calm elevator ride as "not needing to go"—then face an accident 30 seconds after stepping outside. Write down explicitly: "She holds it until we're past the lobby doors. Don't trust the elevator wait—go straight outside."

Winter Boarding (November-March)

Chicago winters create specific hazards that require additional prep—skip these items and your dog may end up with chemical burns or digestive distress:

• Paw balm (Musher's Secret, Bag Balm): Creates a protective barrier against calcium chloride and magnesium chloride—the de-icing chemicals that cause chemical burns on paw pads. Without protection, dogs develop cracked, bleeding paw pads that take weeks to heal.
• Dog booties (if your dog tolerates them): Ruffwear Polar Trex or Muttluks handle Chicago ice and salt. Dogs who won't wear booties need paw balm plus immediate post-walk wiping.
• A warm coat for short-coated breeds: Especially Frenchies, Greyhounds, Pit Bulls—these breeds cannot regulate body temperature in sub-freezing conditions and will shiver, refuse to walk, or risk hypothermia on longer outings.
• Post-walk routine instructions: "Wipe paws within 5 minutes of returning—she licks salt off and it upsets her stomach." Dogs instinctively groom their paws; ingested de-icing chemicals cause vomiting and diarrhea.

The Polar Vortex exception: If you're boarding during a Polar Vortex (below 0°F with wind chill), confirm the outdoor plan with your host beforehand. Most experienced Chicago hosts know to do brief bathroom-only outings during dangerous cold, but don't assume—dogs left outside too long in these conditions can develop frostbite on ears, tails, and paw pads within minutes.

Packing Timeline

When	What to Do	Why This Timing Matters
1 week before	Confirm vaccination records are current; get copies if needed	Expired vaccinations discovered day-of mean cancelled boarding; vet appointments for boosters require advance scheduling
3 days before	Gather food, medications, comfort items; prepare info sheet	Discovering you're low on medication with 3 days to spare gives time for refills; same-day pharmacy runs create stress
Night before	Pack bag; do final medication count; set out worn t-shirt to sleep in	Last-minute packing leads to forgotten items; sleeping in the shirt adds the final layer of concentrated scent
Morning of	Exercise your dog well; keep routine normal; pack scent item last	A tired dog settles faster; packing the scent item last prevents it from picking up other smells that dilute your scent

The Tails Difference: Less Packing Stress

When you book through Tails, you're matched with hosts who genuinely understand dogs—not just people with spare rooms. This changes the packing equation entirely.

Before you pack, your host already knows:

• Your dog's personality from the meet-and-greet (so they've already identified potential challenges and solutions)
• Any medical or behavioral needs from your profile (no surprises about medications or reactivity)
• Your dog's energy level and social preferences (they've confirmed they can accommodate these needs)

What that means for packing:

• Hosts can tell you what they already have (bowls, beds, toys)—so you don't pack unnecessary items
• You can ask specific questions about what to bring—because you have direct communication with someone who knows your dog
• No wondering if your host can handle your dog's quirks—they were matched because their experience and environment fit your dog's specific needs

This is the difference between a directory (you search, you guess, you hope) and a matchmaker (we verify compatibility before the booking happens). You're not shipping your dog to a stranger and crossing your fingers. You're leaving them with a verified professional who's already prepared for your dog—which means your packing list gets shorter and your peace of mind gets larger.

Find Your Boarding Match on Tails

Your Final Packing Checklist

Required (Must Have)

• Food: regular food + 2 extra days' worth
• Medications: original bottles + written instructions + vet contact
• Vaccination records: Rabies, DHPP, Bordetella, Canine Influenza
• Emergency info sheet with authorization for emergency care
• Feeding instructions (written)

Comfort (Strategic)

• One scent item (worn shirt or blanket)
• Familiar collar with current ID tags
• Regular leash/harness
• 2-3 favorite toys (durable, not irreplaceable)

Skip These

• Expensive or sentimental items
• New food or treats
• More than 3 toys
• Full-sized dog beds
• Unsupervised chew hazards

The Real Packing Secret

Here's what experienced boarding hosts will tell you: the most important thing you pack isn't an item. It's information.

Clear communication about your dog's needs, honest details about their quirks, and thorough emergency contacts matter more than any comfort item—because information allows your host to anticipate problems before they happen, while even the best comfort item cannot prevent a host from being blindsided by behavior they weren't warned about.

Dogs are adaptable. They settle into new environments faster than most pet parents expect—provided they have their basic needs met (food, medication, routine) and one concentrated scent anchor that tells their brain "my person is coming back." They don't need their whole life packed in a duffel bag. They need a host who understands them.

Everything else? Trust your host. That's why you did the meet-and-greet—to confirm this is someone worthy of that trust.

Ready to find a boarding host worth trusting? Browse verified hosts on Tails and schedule your free meet-and-greet.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Should I bring my dog's crate to boarding? Usually no, and here's why: most hosts have already optimized their sleeping arrangements for multiple dogs and don't have room to accommodate extra crates. Transporting crates is cumbersome, and your dog will likely adapt to the host's setup within a day. The exception: if your dog is deeply crate-trained (runs in voluntarily, sleeps there with door open, uses it as their safe space), and the crate genuinely reduces their anxiety in new places, discuss it with your host during the meet-and-greet. Some hosts welcome crates; others prefer their own setups and can explain why.

How much food should I pack for a 5-day stay? Pack enough for 7 days (the stay plus 2 extra days). Here's why the buffer matters: flights get cancelled, extended stays happen, and some dogs eat slightly more when they're more active than usual at the host's home. Running out mid-stay forces an abrupt diet switch—which combines with boarding stress to cause diarrhea. Pre-portioning into daily bags eliminates measurement guesswork and protects against both under- and over-feeding.

What if I forget to pack something important? Don't panic—but do understand what's recoverable and what isn't. Most hosts can improvise for non-medical items: bowls, temporary leashes, even basic food in a pinch. What cannot be improvised: medications (especially prescription or controlled substances—your host cannot legally obtain these) and emergency contact information (if you're unreachable and they don't know your vet or backup contact, emergencies become much harder to handle). For everything else, communicate with your host, and they'll figure it out.

Should I bring my dog's regular water? Unnecessary for most dogs. Here's the biology: while dogs can experience minor digestive adjustment to different water sources (mineral content, chlorination levels), this rarely causes significant problems and resolves within 24-48 hours. Bringing gallons of home water is impractical and usually overkill. Exception: if your dog has a documented history of digestive upset from water changes (not just general stomach sensitivity), bring enough for the first day or two to allow gradual transition. Most dogs adjust without any issue.

What if my dog has special dietary needs? Bring everything they need, clearly labeled with instructions—and bring more than you think you'll need. If your dog eats prescription food like Hill's Science Diet or Royal Canin Veterinary, your host cannot replace it: these foods require a vet authorization and aren't stocked at regular pet stores or even most specialty retailers. Running out means either switching to non-prescription food (risking the medical condition the prescription diet manages) or scrambling to get a vet prescription filled during your absence. Include feeding instructions, especially if meals need to be spaced from medications—timing interactions matter for absorption and effectiveness.

Can I pack calming aids like CBD treats or Adaptil spray? Yes, if your dog uses them regularly and you know they work for your dog. Include them with clear instructions on when and how to administer—timing matters significantly for effectiveness (see details below).

Timing matters for calming products:

• Adaptil spray: Apply to bedding 15-20 minutes before your dog arrives—it needs time to disperse. Don't spray directly on your dog or right as they enter the space.
• Adaptil collar: Put it on 24 hours before boarding starts so pheromones are actively releasing.
• Thundershirt: Most effective when put on before anxiety escalates, not during a panic episode.
• Calming chews (Zylkene, Composure, VetriScience): Give 30-60 minutes before the stressful event for peak effectiveness.

Products like Adaptil (pheromone spray or collar), Thundershirt, Calming Cap (for visually overstimulated dogs), or vet-approved supplements can help anxious dogs settle faster—but only if administered correctly. Products used after anxiety has already escalated are far less effective than products used preventatively. Discuss with your host so they know what's available and when to use each tool before your dog shows signs of distress.